Shoe and method of making same



Dec. 4, 1945. J. w. BARNA SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed July 28, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 J U R Jose 0% fyfiama/ @345, J. w. BARNA V v SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed. July 28, 1944.

2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec. 4, 1945 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Application July 28, 1944, Serial No. 546,988

8 Claims.

My invention relates to shoes and the method of making the same.

An important object of the invention is to produce a pre-welt stitch-down shoe upper in which the lower marginal portion of the upper forms a band and is cemented to the outer side of the prestitched welt on the upper in order to form a twolayer assembly to which an outer sole may be secured.

A further object is to provide a simple and effieient method or procedure for forming such prewelt stitch-down shoe upper and a shoe embodying the same.

Other features of my invention will become apparent from the following detail specification in connection with the drawings, on which drawings Figure 1 is a plan view of a shoe;

Figure 2 i a side elevation of the shoe;

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the upper with the pro-stitched welt and the lower marginal band of the upper in position ready to be brought into engagement and cemented to ether;

Figure 4 is a section on plane IVIV of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a side elevation of the upper after the pro-stitched welt and the margin band of the upper have been cemented together;

Figure 6 is a section on plane VIVI Figure 5;

' Figure 7 is an enlarged sectional view of the toe portion of a last inserted into the upper ready for the lasting operation;

Figure 8 is a section similar to Figure '7 showing an insole applied on the last, and the wiper structure closed to bring the inner edgeof the welt and upper margin band assembly over and around the peripheral portion of the insole with the end of the upper lining extending therefrom;

Figure 9 is a section like Figure 8 ShOWlllg the lining end deflected over a ainst and cemented to the insole. and with a filler interposed and the outsole cemented in place after the wiper structure has been fully closed; and

Figure 10 is a section showing the outsole and .the welt and upper margin assembly stitched together to form the finished shoe.

Referring to the drawings, Figures 1 and 2 show my invention applied to a juvenile shoe, the shoe comprising the toe portion In and the heel and ankle portion ll. These toe and heel-ankle portions, before being sewn together, have their marginal portions, on the grain side thereof, skived, sanded, buffed, or otherwise treated so that cement will readily adhere thereto this treated marginal portion being indicated by l2 on Figure 3. The upper forming parts I!) and I I are then sewn together and the welt I3 is stitched to and around the upper with the stitching line It close to the lower edge of the welt and with the welt extending upwardly, as shown on Figures 3 and 4. Cement I5 is now applied to the outer sides of the welt band and the upper marginal portion [2 and then, as shown on Figures 5 and 6, themarginal portion I2 is folded upwardly around the lower edge and against the outer side of the welt, the cement holding these parts intimately together to provide a two-layer assembly W. Where the upper is lined, the welt stitching l4 will secure the lower part of the lining to the upper and, as shown on Figure 5, the lower end It of the lining may be extended below the assembly to be utilized for purposes as will hereinafter appear.

As shown on Figure 7, a last I! is now inserted into the pre-welt stitch-down upper assembly, shown on Figure 5, ready for the lasting operation which may be accomplished in any suitable machine as, for example,'the lasting machine disclosed in my Patent No. 2,144,582, dated January 17, 1939. Before this upper assembly with the last therein is applied in the lasting machine, an expander too], such as shown on Figure 30 of my patent referred to, is applied to the assembly W to swing this assembly into horizontal position from it original depending position indicated by the dotted lines on Figure '7. The upper assembly, while being held in the expander, is applied in the lasting machine between the expanded wiper assembly I8. An insole 19 may now be laid on the last and then the machine is operated for closure of the wiper structure ill to stretch the upper around the last and to bring the inner edge of the assembly W down against and around the peripheral portion of the insole, as shown on Figure 8, l

and the expander tool is then removed.

Where a projecting lining end I6 is left on the upper, this end portion is deflected inwardly and downwardly and cemented to the insole, and a filler 20 of suitable material, such as cork, is secured by cement 2| to the insole and the lining end'l6 as shown on Figure 9. An outer sole 22 is then cemented against the filler and the outer side of the assembly W under pressure of a presser foot, as shown in my patent referred to, the pressure forcing the various parts intimately together for securing together thereof by the cement, the resulting structure being shown on Figure 9.

After cementing of the outer sole in place, the structure with the last therein is removed from the lasting machine and transferred to a stitching machine for application of stitching 23 for securing the outer sole to the assembly, the assembly and outer sole being then properly trimmed off to size outside of the stitching line 23, and the shoe is then completed, as shown on Figure 10, and the last may be withdrawn therefrom.

Where no extended portion I6 is left on the upper lining, any suitable insole and filler could be laid on the last prior to the wiper operation and then the wiper contracted and closed to bring the inner edge of the assembly W around and down against the peripheral portion of the insole and to the periphery of the filler, and the outsole then cemented down against the filler and the assembly.

Instead of applying the insole to the last before the wiper operation, a filler could be laid on the last and the wiper then closed and the outer sole cemented to the filler and to the assembly and the assembly and outer sole then stitched together, and then, after removal of the last, the inner sole could be inserted into the shoe and cemented to the inner side of the filler.

My improved method, involving the clamping between and cementing of the upper margin to the welt and the outer sole, is of particular ad vantage where the upper is of textile material such as canvas, cloth, or the like, as with such material the strands along the upper margin will be cemented together and clamped so that unraveling is prevented.

It is to be noted that in all the various operations referred to, I10 tacking will be required for the upper or welt, and this will materially decrease the cost of manufacture of the shoe and prolong the life of the last.

It will, f course, be understood that various details of construction may be varied through a wide range without departing from the principles of this invention and it is, therefore, not the purpose to limit the patent granted hereon otherwise than necessitated by the scope of the appended claims.

I claim as my invention: 1

1. The method of forming a pre-welt stitchdown shoe upper which comprises stitching a welt to and around the upper with the stitching line close to the lower edge of the welt and a distance above the upper edge to leave a margin on the upper, and folding this upper margin upwardly around the lower edge of the welt and against the outer side of th welt for cementing thereto whereby to form a two-layer assembly to which an outer sole may be secured.

2. The method of forming a pre-welt stitchdown shoe upper which comprises stitching a welt to the upper a distance above the bottom edge of the upper to leave an upper band, and then folding this upper band against the outer face of the welt and securing it thereto by cement whereby to form a double layer assembly to which an outer sole may be secured.

3. The method of forming a pre-welt stitchdown shoe upper which comprises removing the grain surface from the marginal portion around the bottom of the upper, stitching a welt to the upper above the upper marginal portion, then folding this marginal portion around the lower edge of the welt and against the outer face of the welt and securing it thereto by cementing whereby to provide a double-layer assembly to which an outer sole may be secured.

4. The method of producing a pre-welt stitchdown shoe upper which comprises removing the grain surface along the marginal portion of the upper, stitching a welt to the upper with the stitching line close to its lower edge and a distance above the upper marginal portion, then applying cement to the upper marginal portion and to the outer side of the welt and folding the upper marginal portion up around the lower edge of the welt and against the outer face thereof whereby said marginal portion and said welt will be cemented together to provide a double-layer assembly to which an outer sole may be secured.

5. The method of forming a pre-welt stitchdown shoe upper which comprises applying a welt entirely around the upper and stitching it thereto along a stitching line close to the lower edge of the welt and a distance above the bottom edge of the upper to leave a marginal band on the upper, removing the grain surface from this upper marginal band, then applying cement to this marginal band and the outer side of the welt and then folding the marginal band round the lower edge of the welt and against the outer side thereof for cementing thereto whereby to provide a two-layer assembly extending around the upper and which may be deflected into position to have an outer sole secured thereto.

6. A pre-welt stitch-down shoe upper in which the welt is stitched along its lower edge to the upper a distance above the bottom edge of the upper to leave a margin on the upper, and with this upper margin folded upwardly around the lower edge and against the outer side of the welt and cemented thereto to provide a two-layer assembly around the upper which may be deflected into position for the attachment of an outer sole thereto.

7. The method of making a shoe upper'which comprises applying a welt to the upper by stitching it thereto along a stitching line close to the lower edge of the welt and a distance above the bottom edge of the upper to leave a marginal band on the upper, then bringing the upper band against the outer side of the welt and securing it thereto whereby to provide a double-layer assembly on the upper which may be deflected outwardly in a lasting machine for securing of an outer sole thereto.

8. The method of making a shoe upper which comprises stitching a welt to the upper along a stitching line close to the lower edge of the welt and a distance above the bottom edge of the upper to leave a marginal band on the upper, then folding the upper band around the welt and against the outer side thereof and securing it thereto whereby to provide a double-layer assembly on the upper which may be deflected outwardly into a horizontal plane in a lasting machine for securing of an outer sole thereto.

JOSEPH W. BARNA. 

